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Things to do in Fukuoka: Eat in a Yatai

A Nakasu yatai during Dotonburi

A yatai along Nakasu area

Yatai‘s are informal food stalls that spring up on busy pedestrian walkways as the sun begins to set and are dismantled late at night or very early in the morning.  They usually sell traditional Japanese food, beer and sake.  They are found all over Japan but Fukuoka is particularly famous for its Yatai.  Each Yatai tends to specialize in a certain type of Japanese food and you can easily see it simply by looking at whats on the preparation table.  Typical dishes availalble at yatais are yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), oden, and Fukuoka’s pride, Hakata ramen (egg noodles in pork based soup).

.If you are in Fukuoka during a matsuri (festival) or during peak season expect very long lines in yatais as it is a must-go place for Japanese tourists from out of town.  Don’t even think about going to a yatai during the Dontaku Parade (May 3 and 4) unless you are ready to wait for more than an hour.  (That being said, the best way to find the best yatai is to look for the one with the longest line.)

Going to a yatai is certainly a great alternative to dining in restaurants, especially when you are in Fukuoka.  Prices are certainly cheaper, and the chances of sharing a conversation and a few rounds of beer with your seatmates are greater.  With the narrow space shared between customers,  you can’t help but strike a conversation, language never being a hindrance.

A jampacked yatai.

It is usually set up like a bar, where diners sit down side by side in 3 edges of a one square meter rectangle and the bartender/cook prepares meals in the middle.  Sometimes the outer edges of the rectangle are covered with curtains, just to make you feel exclusive.  One need not even worry about the quality of the ingredients as they are (at least in Fukuoka) regulated by the city government for cleanliness.

The more famous (and biggest) yatai strip is found in Nakasu, by the river.  If this gets too crowded (isn’t it always?), you are sure to find some other yatai in the vicinity so just wander around. The Nagahama district near Akasaka is also a good (but not as good) alternative.   Expect to sit beside salarymen relaxing after a gruelling Japanese business day, or those from Tokyo who are in Fukuoka for a business trip.  Tourists from other regions of Japan, China and Korea also abound.

Yatai Yakitori, as good as it gets!
If you find yourself jaded by the many nights spent in restaurants in Japan that seemed more fun in the imagination than in reality, a yatai is the best way to bring back the romanticized image you once had.  After all, the real Japan dining experience is only 50% about the food.  The rest is made up of the conversations you make and stories you gather as you struggle with your chopsticks.
Book your Fukuoka Hotels early if you want to visit during peak season.  You need a place to rest in between yatai eating after all!

Yatais light up the river in Nakasu

Yatais light up Nakagawa

4 Comments

  1. naoko says:

    Hi
    I’v never been to Fukuoka. I’d like to someday, especially, I want to try yatais at Nakasu! I live in Akashi city Hyogo, and there is nowhere like that.
    I’m looking forward to reading your reports about Fukuoka!!

  2. Viva says:

    Yummy! Mouthwatering article.

  3. Viva says:

    I just love Japanese food with beer or sake. This is the best. Beats our version of street food anytime.

  4. morris goh says:

    Good review.I will definitely dine at a yatai to experience the real Fukuoka.Have more of this wonderful city coming!

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